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Indiana
has a wonderfully diverse built environment loaded with
plenty of cool buildings, cool being a subjective term
applicable to anything that is interesting in some
positive way. Cool buildings don’t have to be historic,
significant, famous, grand, or even noticed by anyone
except the people who think they are cool. For me, a
cool building reflects the context of its birth in its
materials, form, architectural style and detail. These
buildings stand like portals to the past still cloaked
in the fashion statements, aspirations, and functional
attitudes of 1880, 1929, 1955, or even 1996. A little
observation coupled with a bit of history is all that is
needed to appreciate the hippest among them. What
follows are the ten buildings that, in my opinion,
contribute the most to the borough’s collective built
environment arranged in rank order with #1 being the
coolest. No residential structures were considered. It
is hard to rank great houses with great commercial and
public buildings so they are best left to their own list
of “Ten Coolest Houses in Indiana.” So with residential
structures set aside, the ten coolest buildings in
Indiana are cluster downtown and on the IUP campus,
beginning with…
10. Diamond Drugs, 670
Philadelphia Street. Diamond Drugs makes the list
because of its massive, protruding-brow façade, an
exaggerated modern element expressive of the late 1950s
and early 1960s. The porcelain enamel panels cover a
commercial row building that probably dates back to the
19th century. Enamored with the clean lines
and smooth surfaces of modernity, downtown merchants
started remodeling their storefronts with contemporary
materials in the 1920s. Pigmented structural glass
(known by such trade names as Vitrolite and Carrara
Glass), and porcelain enamel baked onto metal sheets
were two popular modern facing materials. By the
late-1950s however, smooth, unornamented surfaces were
not enough to catch the attention of downtown shoppers,
causing some merchants to adopt a style that exaggerated
certain architectural elements to make the building
stand out with a space-age sleekness appreciated at the
time. Exaggerated modern exuberance fell from favor by
the late 1960s, being replaced by a more somber
environmental style characterized by earth tones,
natural materials, faux mansard roofs, and Colonial
Revival details. Interestingly, Diamond Drugs exhibits
this style too, the results of a first floor remodel
that occurred after the drug store moved from its
previous location in an older building that once stood
where Lucky Break Billiards now is. Diamond Drug’s
contrast of styles only makes it all the cooler. Other
Indiana buildings clad in porcelain enamel include
Buggy’s Exxon on Philadelphia Street, with its curved
corner vestige of the 1930s Streamline Moderne style,
and the Rend Building on S. 7th Street. Just
north at 8 S. 7th is Van Horn’s Barber Shop,
partially clad in Indiana’s sole surviving example black
Vitrolite.

9. Waller Hall, IUP campus.
Waller Hall, and its adjacent fraternal twin, Fisher
Hall, are Indiana’s best examples of Neoclassical Greek
temple forms from the early 20th century.
Between the 19th century Victorian period and
the rise of modern styles in the mid-20th
century, America experienced a renewed interest in
revival styles inspired by the classical architecture of
ancient Greece and Rome. The two collegiate buildings
that filled out the west side of the Oak Grove reflect
these styles, referencing the enlightened principles of
the ancient Greeks thought to be eminently appropriate
for halls of higher education. Waller Hall was completed
in 1927 to include a gymnasium and a swimming pool. Its
front is a raised portico encompassing a row of fluted
Corinthian columns supporting a triangular pediment.
Large, three-part Palladian-like windows -more a
Renaissance thing than a Greek thing, but commonly
incorporated into Neoclassical structures of the early
20th century- open the flanks and rear of the
temple form. Keystones –more a Pennsylvania thing than a
Greek thing- are used as decorative elements in the
front and rear (including a large one containing the
letter “I” for Indiana). Fisher was built next door in
1939 as an auditorium and concert hall. It is somewhat
less ornamented due to the creeping effects of
modernity, and is not raised on a stepped platform, but
stands as the perfect compliment.

8. Coney Island, 636-642
Philadelphia Street. The first cool thing about the
Coney is its labyrinthine nature, snaking through four
interconnected buildings with two bars, a restaurant,
dance floor, and game room tucked around each successive
corner. This complex of structures also allows more
buildings to be squeezed onto a top ten list as the
exterior facades on all of them have been little
changed. The front two buildings facing Philadelphia
Street are part of a row of structures that preserve the
appearance of Victorian era Indiana at its height. The
eastern half of Philadelphia Street’s 600 block was the
county’s business, retail, and government center.
Buildings on the south side of the street were
constructed in the high style architecture of the 1880s
and 1890s, having located opposite what was then the new
Indiana County Courthouse, completed in 1870. The four
adjacent facades extending east from Carpenter Avenue
(the first two being part of the Coney) project the rise
and fall of the Romanesque style. The Coney’s main
entrance is through the old True Value Hardware Store,
constructed as the Wilson, Sutton & Company Store in
1880 in the popular Italianate style of heavy,
decorative cornices, but with a hint of Romanesque in
its arched windows and central bay. Coney’s
arched-window corner building was built in a Romanesque
style for S & T’s first bank. Although lacking
semi-circular, Roman arch windows, the 1895 Rend
Brothers Building (now Amadeus Café) does have some
rusticated stonework more common to the style. At the
same time, it incorporates larger window openings topped
by transom glass, a feature characteristic of a new
commercial style then being adopted by substantial
downtown block buildings. The adjacent building, now
Cozumel, was constructed as the First National Bank
around the same time. The unaltered part of its façade
uses even more rusticated stone, but in a style that
anticipates the impending trend toward Neoclassicism
that became especially popular with banks. This entire
street ensemble predates the Coney Island Restaurant,
but not the coney island, an early term for the
hot dog invented in 1874 at Coney Island, New York. By
the early 20th century, “Coney Island”
luncheonettes were popping up all over Main Street
America as small eateries serving hot dogs and other
quick, affordable fare. The Coney Island’s original
alley location at 11 Carpenter Avenue was typical for
these small lunch rooms. Established in 1933, Indiana’s
Coney Island beckoned hungry patrons down the alley from
Philadelphia Street with the aid of a colorful, neon,
metal box sign. Although no longer lit, the vintage sign
is still there.

7. Rose Building, 740
Philadelphia Street. The Rose Building is Indiana’s most
elegant example of the modern commercial style emergent
in the early 20th century. It also represents
the height of downtown retailing before the onslaught of
the automobile scattered shopping to the suburbs. Now
housing the Pita Pit, the building was constructed for
S. W. Rose, proprietor of the Bon Ton Department Store.
His name still marks the top of the building. Indiana’s
Bon Ton (a French reference to ‘high fashion’ popular in
the late 19th century) began on the first
floor of the old Elks Lodge, a Romanesque commercial
building constructed in 1907 that now contains
Luxenberg’s Jewelers. Rose moved into the new building
at 8th and Philadelphia streets in 1918. The
white, glazed brick building was minimally decorated,
having broad eves and an arcaded façade of four,
fan-topped, full-length arches. The arches reference
Italian Renaissance loggias, while the building’s sleek
lines and understated ornamentation anticipates the
Modern movement. Its lesser twin houses Indiana Floral
and carries a date stone of 1912, the year the
Titanic went down. More than 100 years later, the
Rose Building is still delicately balanced between the
eclectic historical influences of the Victorian era, and
the progressive modernity of the 20th
century.

6. The Coventry Inn, 11 N. 6th
Street. Most unaltered buildings reflect the historical
styles that existed when they were constructed, allowing
the built environment to be read like a book and
arranged according to a chronology of expected styles.
Occasionally, there is a building that doesn’t make
sense relative to the typical historical geography of a
place. In Indiana, that building is the Coventry Inn.
Rather than representing its time and place, The
Coventry reflects its authorship; one man’s dream to
construct an authentic English pub on the streets of
Indiana. Charles Runyon, owner of The Roadster Factory,
an Indiana County company that provides parts and
equipment for British sports cars, willed the inn into
existence, and even fabricated its legend. The legend
tells of a mythical first Coventry Inn operated in
Bidford-on-Avon from 1497 to 1941 when a German air raid
during the Battle of Britain bombed it out of existence
–almost. The surviving beams were purchased by Runyan,
and incorporated into his Indiana recreation, which then
would have been completed in time to celebrate its 500th
anniversary in 1997. Regardless of the legend, the
Coventry Inn is Indiana’s incongruous example of a 15th
century English Tudor pub built of half-timbering and
stucco popular three centuries before the county was
founded. Common to this vernacular form, the Coventry
has twin, front-facing gables, and three cantilevered
stories each projecting outward from the story below.
The wooden casement windows are grouped in strings of
three (third floor) or more (first and second floor),
the heavy iron-strap door is fitted into a flattened
Tudor arch, and the massive chimney is topped with
decorative clay pots. The chimney is the outward
expression of a large central fireplace, which can be
enjoyed on chilly winter nights while lounging on
leather couches drinking pints of English ale. And
that’s really cool.

5. Grace United Methodist
Church, 7th & Church streets. Like many
small towns, Indiana has a street on the edge of the
business district that fronts the oldest and most
prominent religious institutions. Appropriately enough,
this is Church Street where Zion Lutheran, Graystone
Presbyterian, Calvary Presbyterian, Grace United
Methodist, and First Baptist churches stand within a
couple blocks of each other. This is by design, dating
back to the original 1803 plat on which George Clymer
designated a block between what are now 6th
and 7th streets to be reserved for churches.
Rising heavenward from the northwest corner of 7th
and Church, Grace United Methodist is the third church
built by Indiana’s Methodist community, the first in
1841, and the second at this site in 1876. The present
church was built to satisfy the needs of an expanding
congregation in the midst of the Great Depression.
Dedicated in 1932, it is a Georgian Revival building
with all the embellishments this style is known for when
used as church architecture: a tall, slender steeple, a
large portico of cast marble Corinthian columns
supporting a triangular pediment, decorative cornice
urns, broken ogee pediments over the main doors, and
two, large Palladian windows at either end of the
transept, which is the part of a cruciform-shaped church
that crosses the main nave right before the alter. The
brilliant, classic white interior has a certain historic
familiarity to it, as it is reminiscent of Boston’s
famous Old North Church.

4. Calvary Presbyterian Church,
7th & Church streets. Catty corner from the
Renaissance inspired Grace United Methodist is Calvary
Presbyterian’s monumental Gothic Revival edifice faced
in reddish-hued Hummelstown brownstone. Church corners
don’t get cooler than this, with two grandly apportioned
houses of worship richly constructed in the two
ecclesiastical styles popular during the early 20th
century. Calvary’s congregation was founded in 1807 as
the First Presbyterian Church just four years after
Indiana was founded. This building however, was
completed in 1906 as the congregation’s third. Its
Gothic references include heavy stone masonry, pointed
lancet arches and windows, and a lofty, buttressed
corner tower that supported a steeple until 1966. Gothic
Revival styles were popular in the mid-19th
century as romantic reinterpretations of the cathedrals
and castles of Medieval Europe. Its ecclesiastical roots
made it particularly popular for churches well into the
20th century. Although Gothic on the outside,
the inside exhibits neoclassical Beaux Art influences
with Corinthian pilasters and a spectacular art glass
dome. Rather than the traditional cruciform shape, the
sanctuary sits within a large rotunda typical of the
“Akron Plan” first used in an Akron, Ohio, Methodist
Episcopal church in 1870. Its raked floor and
semi-circular pews are more like an auditorium facing an
east wall platform supporting the altar. The octagonal
room is surrounded by remarkable Art Nouveau stained
glass windows, including one created by one-time Tiffany
associate, Robert L. Dodge. This was Jimmy Stewart’s
church, and his name can still be found on the Service
Role of members who served in World War II. Nearly as
cool as Calvary itself, is its pairing with the
limestone-faced Graystone Presbyterian, another Gothic
Revival church built next door in 1926. Graystone too is
graced with large stained glass, lancet windows, but in
a church with a more traditional cruciform plan.

3. Sutton Hall, IUP Campus.
Once housing the entire college, Sutton Hall is
Indiana’s “city on a hill,” a biblical and classical
reference to a place of virtue that can not easily be
hid whose enlightened ways will attract others. Because
of this metaphorical reference, hilltops were favored
locations for 18th and 19th
century schools, academies and colleges. When Indiana
attracted a state normal school (or teacher’s college)
in 1875, it was built on a small rise southwest of town.
Its hilltop position is best appreciated from the top of
another even higher hill, near the 6th Street
entrance to Mack Park. It can also noticed when
approaching the front of the building from Pratt Street,
which is how the first students saw it after debarking
from the train at College Station located at what is now
Pratt and Locust streets. College Station was the first
stop south of the Pennsylvania Railroad’s Indiana Branch
terminus at 8th and Philadelphia streets.
Sutton was built in an Italianate style with tall,
narrow, hooded windows, bracketed eves, a central
cupola, and veranda. The building has three projecting
bays, with jerkin heads -hipped-roof wall dormers-
topping the end bays. The building arms extending behind
the north and south bays used to be much longer, housing
dormitories, a library, dining hall, kitchen, and a
corner tower of teacher suites. The arm extensions were
all razed over the years as the campus expanded and
these functions were taken up in separate buildings. The
central arm contains the Blue Room, a parquet floored
hall supported by a forest of Corinthian columns, with
classical bas relief wall sculptures, and a raised
ambulatory that surrounds the room. Originally called
Recreation Hall, the room held mass meetings, gym
classes, and dances. Its current name was borrowed from
a small side room that once contained a great, four-way
fireplace. At the time, Sutton had two other small
sitting rooms, named after the hues of their décor; the
Red Room, and the Green Room. Although now housing
administrative offices, and the Gorrell performance
hall, Sutton still stands as the historic core of the
IUP campus.

2. First National Bank (First
Commonwealth), 6th & Philadelphia
streets. Now First Commonwealth, the First National Bank
of Indiana was erected just prior to the Great
Depression in 1929, possibly contributing to its failure
and reorganization five years later as the First
National Bank in Indiana. It is a stunning Modern
Neoclassical anchor bank with a cavernous interior,
arguably the most impressive interior space in Indiana.
Main Street America reached its peak during the early 20th
century when local business communities were anchored by
substantial banking houses prominently located on
downtown corners. The sense of permanence, stability and
strength implied by classical architectural elements
like marble columns, pediments, and stone lions was the
exact attitude the banks wanted to project, especially
during times of financial uncertainty. The Neoclassical
Revival begun in the 1890s lasted with waning influence
into the mid-20th century, and had two
sources of inspiration: Frances elite school of
architecture at the Ecole de Beaux Arts, and Chicago’s
Columbian Exposition of 1893. Neoclassicism was
gradually replaced by the smooth surfaces, and
unornamented, boxy forms of modernity. Indiana’s First
National Bank Building is transitional to both
movements, exhibiting smooth, marble surfaces and
pilasters (squared-off wall columns), with a classical
frieze of alternating targets and triglyphs (groupings
of three vertical bars). The bank’s stone facing and
classical accouterments obscure the modern structural
steel framework that allows for its full-length windows
and great hall interior. There are no sleeping lions at
the doorstep, but lion heads are worked into a
decorative belt at the top of the entablature.

1. Old Indiana County
Courthouse, 6th & Philadelphia streets.
The coolest building in Indiana symbolically stands at
the center of town in the center of the county. Designed
as the county’s most elegantly apportioned public
building, the old Indiana County Courthouse replaced an
even older courthouse built on the site soon after the
county was formed in 1803. To this day, its gold capped
clock tower joins the steeples as the tallest points on
the Indiana skyline, a throwback to a time before
skyscrapers when only government buildings and churches
were built tall for symbolic reasons. A grand colonnade
of fluted columns topped with Corinthian capitals made
of iron supports a pediment rising above the tall second
story court room windows. These classical elements are
incorporated into a building defined by its mansard roof
as Second Empire, a popular style imported from France
when the courthouse was completed in 1875. The building
has a traditional form established for courthouses in
the 19th century. The everyday functions of
the county clerk, treasurer, recorder of deeds, and
other “row offices” were located on the first floor. The
large court room, with ample space for spectators, was
reserved for the second floor where full-length windows
provided plenty of light and cross ventilation above the
dust and noise of the street in days before air
conditioning. The sheriff’s residence behind the
courthouse contained the jail, which was directly linked
to the court room by a “bridge of sighs.” All of these
courthouse components can still be seen even though the
county government left for the new Colonial Revival
courthouse at 8th and Philadelphia in 1970.
First Commonwealth leased the old courthouse and has
underwritten its restoration. The new courthouse does
not have the charm or aesthetic appeal of its
predecessor, but it does have a cool statue of Jimmy
Stewart.

There are a lot of cool
buildings in Indiana that didn’t make the list, but
could have. Among them are S & T’s new Postmodern office
building at 8th and Philadelphia, the Neuman
Center’s nautilus-shaped Catholic church, the Brown
Hotel, and the old Clearfield Bituminous Coal Company
office now functioning as the Municipal Building. These
and many other structures are a treasured legacy that
gives flavor to even the most ordinary drives through
Indiana.
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